A lot of people today wear a suit and tie but how many of them really know how to do it properly?
Not many – for several reasons.
- Many people don’t take the time to find the outfits that really are perfect for them, simply because they are too busy with work and family commitments.
- Others don’t recognize the benefits of a well-tailored suit – one that suggests a certain presence and charisma. Instead they choose cheap items that are basically badly made. Note: inexpensive outfits are not always of poor quality but they don’t match up to those that are tailor made, for example.
The bottom line is that a poorly tailored suit will give the impression that you are somewhat run-of-the-mill and sadly lacking in style.
Some advice for choosing the outfit that’s perfect for you:
Determine your body shape. There are three basic types.
1. The mesomorph:
This is the ideal masculine shape – a man who is more than 185cm with a strong, athletic build. With this body type, it’s best to choose slim-fit styles and avoid baggy pants.
2. The ectomorph:
This is the person with a tall, thin build. It’s important to try to add definition and volume to the silhouette to avoid the impression of looking anorexic. The best advice for men with this body type is to wear longer, slim-fit shirts that can be tucked into the pants for extra volume.
3. The endomorph:
People with this body type are often short and rounded and tend to carry excess weight. For them, the best thing is to give balance to their shape by wearing streamlined styles and darker colours that will disguise their curves.
When you have worked out your body shape, you will increase the chances of finding outfits that suit you.
Here are some important points about suit jackets:
Always make sure you have plenty of width at the shoulders. The seam at the top of the sleeve should reach the beginning of your shoulder muscle and the sleeves shouldn’t be too long. As a guide, your shirt should finish about one and a half finger’s width below the jacket sleeve and should allow your watch to be just visible underneath.
Avoid brown shoes with your dark suits; they don’t go well together. However, with a lighter suit there won’t be any problems with brown or even colored shoes.
Your suit jacket should always cover your buttocks – it just looks better! Pay attention to the pants as well; they are an integral part of the outfit. You need to get the length right so that you are not standing on the cuff. Neither should they be so short that the whole of your shoe is showing. That is definitely not a good look.
You mustn’t forget the ‘break’, which is the point at which the bottom of your trousers touches your shoe. Your trousers should have only one fold at that level; that’s usually called a medium break.
A final word. Match your belt with your shoes and try, as far as possible, to match the color of your socks and tie. And for one ultimate touch, nothing is more effective than a Glamorous Pochette to add to your breast-pocket.
PS. And if you are looking for a tailor to take care of you, you might wanna give me a call 😉